Friday, July 20, 2007

Mumbia/Bombay India through Camera

Chatrapatee Shivajee Railway Station
Bhel Puri - Mumbai favorite snack after Vada Pav
Flora Fountain
Gateway fo india and Taj Hotel
Gatewya of India
Band Stand, Bandra
Municipal Corporation Office

View of Marine lines from Girgaum Chowpatty
BEST - City Bus

Thursday, July 19, 2007

Lions of the Rapids

30 of the 41 Roadies goaded themselves to find comfortable corners in the bus for themselves. The bags & belongings were nicely tucked inside the overhead shelves. The bus jerked, as it came into motion. Ditto the conversation! It stuttered with hesitant ‘hi’s, and turned into endless gossip, as the bus picked up speed.

By the time bus took its first halt, an hour later, at somewhere close to Sion, the bus had turned into a ‘Party-on-wheels’. Chips flew out of noisy wrappers, biscuit packs floated across and over seats, and drinks of the softer kind flowed, literally, out of the bottles, through thirsty lips into empty stomachs.

At the crack of the dawn, the sun was feeling a little shy. The clouds, like jealous elder siblings, hogged the morning sky. The bus was speeding out of Mumbai. All the Roadies were aboard. Morning breeze snaked in and out of windows, and cast a refreshing spell. Taut bodies felt relaxed, and restless minds lulled in to sleep.

The bus came to a screeching halt at a spot on NH 17. This was Karnala Bird Sanctuary, a favorite haunt of the bird watchers and hikers. One by one, we trundled out of the bus and our eyes feasted on the calm beauty of the wilderness.

Out of the boughs of tall trees, someone caught a glimpse of a spire of a mountain. Thin and tall ! Like Grandpa’s old and delicate finger pointing the way towards the heaven. Some of them were tempted to sneak in to the jungle. Better sense prevailed. There would be another time for this adventure. Sound advice came in form of a popular phrase ‘a river will never wait for anyone’ and the We moved on towards Kolad where Kundallika was still waiting to toss and topple insolent infiltrators from the city.

After a journey of 4 long hours, We reached Kolad Market. Someone spotted a waterfall drifting down on a mountain. The news and sight was greeted with abundant cheer. Enthusiasm was spilling out on the streets. The few people who were present in the small market turned their heads and gave away bemused smiles. Obviously, this was not there first encounter with grown-up kids. We had a simple but filling breakfast and started for the base camp at Sutarwadi.

At the training camp, the sight of a muddy stream was shocking. It was no wider than six meters. ‘Are we supposed to go rafting in this puddle of river,’ was the question on everyone’s mind. But, the instructors were not forthcoming. They turned down all the questions and focused on the job at hand – ‘safety first’. The chief Instructor demonstrated all the equipment – paddle, helmet, safety jacket and the rafts. Ensuing discussion made the team forget about the river for a while. Most of the We were no-swimmers. One of brave hearts popped up the question, which few dared to ask out of fear of embarrassment - ‘is it safe to jump into the rafts for no-swimmers’. The Instructors reply was ‘Yes’. The whole bunch broke into a relieved laughter.

There were five rafts and one expert each to navigate the rapids. The rafts were to be accompanied by an expert kayak-rider, whose sole job was to pull amateur paddlers out of dangerously swift waters. So we thought! We were also instructed in the commands that one has to obey while on the raft – ‘Paddle forwards’, ‘Paddle backwards’, ‘Hold on’ and ‘Hold on and Stay’!

The drizzle continued. Clouds thundered mockingly, but they never poured. If you concentrated really hard, you could hear the banks of river Kundalika whispering unknown secrets to each other. However, this was no time to indulge in subtleties. We were divided into groups of eights. Then, the eight teams hauled their respective rafts over their heads and began to march towards the shore.

As we neared the shored, the river jumped, more out of excitement than out of spite. So did the hearts of Roadies, who were going to have there first brush with a river bent upon pulling off a mischief. We were excited, nervous and anxious, when we were asked to take their places on their rafts. The river did not ease the flow either for the Roadies, it was in a hurry to reach somewhere and it did not care a damn. Just at that moment, when the teams were about to sail the clouds began to pelt the harmless adventurers with huge drops of rain. By the looks of it, it was going to be one hell of a ride down the river!

With the chants of “Jai Kundalika’, the first raft bid goodbyes to the shores. Some hearts were in mouths, others were beating against the chest like a bunch of crazy drummers beating their drums in a rock concert, and the remaining hearts just shrunk, too scared to invite the attention of the river. The rafts bobbed in the water corks of champagne bottle. The rapids were still some way away, but the feeling of weightlessness is not easy to cope with, at least for a couple of minutes into the river.

The first rapid came unannounced. The surge of water threatened to turn the raft upside down. However, we kept their cool, and began to follow the paddle commands more clearly. The challenge is to balance the raft over the rapids so that you are always moving along the waves and not against them. The first wave was rushing towards us, so, we paddled harder to reach closer to the wave and then stopped paddling to let the water flow beneath it and then just flowed with the flow of the river.

First rapid crossed, the excitement was at its extreme. Their was laughter all around. A sense of accomplishment coupled relief of being safe and still being on one’s feet surged and spread through the Roadies. Before they faced the second rapid, when the rafts were sitting pretty on the river, the teams started horsing around, splashing waters with paddles on the nearby raft. Everyone seemed to be lost for a while in a shared sense of exhilaration and spontaneous laughter.

The rain had abated a bit. The charming beauty of the slopes along the mountains shone in its full glory. There was then hardly the time to soak in the scenery. Another rapid came along and the paddles crashed in to the waters at a furious rate. We synchronized their movements with chants of ‘one-two- one-two’. Each raft had its own version. When the rapid was crossed, the chants of ‘Jai Kundalika’ rose through the air.

In an hour, the Roadies had paddled for around 10 kilometers and crossed seven rapids. We were told that rapids on Kundalika were graded 4 and 4+, which was hardly the case. Nonetheless, the adventure and thrill factor was high. The last stretch of Kundalika was gentle and the instructors pushed everyone into taking a plunge. Most of us jumped into the river with pleasure. However, some chickens refused to throw away the paddle. The instructors did the needful. They threw them headlong out into the river to loud cheers.

We swam and frolicked for a long time. It is fun to just lay back and float. We do not get to see so much greenery in Mumbai, so it was a welcome change. For a few unspecified seconds we got ourselves drowned in the quiet splendor of the surroundings. Soon we came to the shore, had a wonderful cup of tea and took some pictures. It was hard to believe that the time just flew. All good things end, so did our rafting trip on Kundalika. But, there was some more fun waiting us on our way back to Mumbai.

We came back to Kolad Market for lunch. During lunch, we discussed that there was one thing that we had not done so far on this trip, which was to stand under a waterfall. The idea was welcomed with applause, since all of us desperately needed a bath, especially after swimming in the muddy water of Kundalika. We came to know of a waterfall some eight kilometers away.

After we had finished our lunch, we moved towards an unknown destination in search of the waterfall. We had hardly traveled kilometer, when to our utter surprise, we found a huge waterfall waiting for us at one corner of the road. Most had hoped to find waterfall in a jungle or something like that. We jumped straight under it for a long time. Passing vehicles would slow down to know what the fuss was really about, and then they moved on. It was indeed a grand finale to a great adventure – an unforgettable moment in the history of Roadies.



Monday, July 09, 2007

An Essay on Islam's Radical Reformers

- By Bhaskar Dasgupta (bdasgupta@gmail.com) Muhammad Ibn Abdel Wahhab, Hassan al Banna and Sayyid Qutb each had a major impact on Sunni Islam across the world. Luther's conceptual reform framework has parallels with what Wahhab, Banna and Qutb attempted or did. Luther's proclamation was not a nod towards liberalism, but a call towards going back to the roots, conservative, non-accretive, etc. After all, all these men wanted to remove the bad accretions which culture, tradition, history, geography have encrusted on the original religion. If you look at Wahhab, that is exactly what he wanted and got, namely a way of looking at an Islam which was pure, free of all the tribal traditions and rules, the jahaliyya bits, the bits which had crept in due to outside influences etc. One might quibble about the philosophical and theological substance of looking at Islam as a literal transcription of rules, regulations and rituals based upon the clear word of God rather than say the more mystical approach of the Sufis. But Abdel Wahhab was a reformer, he wanted to reform, he managed to convince people of the need for reform. He got the people and tribal leaders to follow him and you can see the end result in Saudi Arabia, Indonesia, Pakistan, USA, UK and other places where Saudi money has propagated the Wahhabi creed. Looking at Islam, we have many sects who differ significantly from each others' interpretation. And these differences are serious, ranging from who was the last prophet, to the number of formal prayers per day, to marriage rules, etc. Why go that far, a study in Pakistan is oft quoted in this respect. Some senior legal luminaries called Islamic theologians to depose in front of them on who or what is or defines a Muslim. As the learned judges reported, there was simply no consistency nor does agreement amongst the scholars on what defines a Muslim. If Islamic scholars cannot agree on what or who a Muslim is, what hope does a non-Muslim have? Hence, one is forced to the conclusion that all these interpretations are valid since there is no commonly accepted framework. Or none are valid or at least acceptable. Given the imperfect understanding of human beings of the vast majesty of the Almighty, it is but natural that we will need interpretations, even of the literal word of God. So while the Quran might be the literal word of God and can be said to be absolute, our limited understanding of it will always mean that there is a Doppler shift in understanding and interpreting of the Quran between each and every human being. Once you multiply this with the billions of believers, thousands of generations, millions of scholars, thousands of libraries and zillions of cultural, linguistic, religious and other influences, it is simply not surprising that we have multiple interpretations and sects. For somebody like me who believes that there are multiple ways to the Godhead, it is perfectly logical and just fine to have multiple sects. So a person like Abdel Wahhab is a reformer to me, because his interpretation of his viewpoint of what Islam consists of is perfectly valid, and from his perspective reform means going back to basics. But when the argument is taken to the next step and no other interpretations are allowed, then we start seeing people's hackles rise. When the logical next step starts using violence to impose one's viewpoint, then sectarianism arises (see the issues with Ahmadi's in Pakistan, Shia versus Sunni in Iraq, Salafi versus Sufi in Saudi Arabia and India, etc.). But mainly, these reformers I spoke of got upset that western secular liberal ideas or culturally based traditional tribal ideas were polluting Islam and were the reason for the decline of Islamic societies. Banna's claim to fame is that he formed the Muslim Brotherhood, the first mass political organisation (with some social elements) in 1928 to oppose the western, liberal secular ideas which were flooding into the middle east - such as new technology like steam power and telegraph for example - due to the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire and the European colonialism. His desire was to fight against these secular liberal ideas which he thought were the reason for the decay of Middle Eastern Islamic societies and he advocated a return to a relatively traditionalist/literalist interpretation of Islam. And he got it! The organisation he founded, is a force to bereckoned with (directly or indirectly) in almost every Muslim country (and countries with a Muslim population). There are two main reasons for his success. The first was his prolific writing, which provided the ideological underpinnings of his reform movement and second were his organisational skills. For possibly the first time in Islamic history, an organisation was formed which was not based upon individuals but on a proper institutional framework (think about the Catholic Church and you will understand what I mean! The Catholic Church, for a majority of its life, was deeply involved in every part of its parishioners' daily existence, religious, economic, social, etc.). In Banna's formative years, he was exposed to anti colonial fights and grew to see the impact of British liberal thought in Cairo. What he took away from his observations was that the reason for the decline of Islamic civilisation was not the conservatism of Al Azhar and the Muslim theologians but western liberal secular ideas. Once it had reached critical mass, it startedbecoming a political force and Banna was assassinated for his trouble. But it is a measure of his success that despite his death at only 43 years of age, the organisation has kept on growing and multiplying despite tremendous oppression by almost all parties. Sayyid Qutb (1906-1966) on the other hand, is more modern. A teacher by training, he took up a job teaching and initially had a great interest in literature. Then the seminal event of his life happened, he was sent to the USA to study their educational system. For a variety of reasons, this USA sojourn caused his brain circuits to fry and he fulminated against the sexual freedom, haircuts, racism, individual liberties, lack of support for Palestine, interest in sports etc. As usual, he took up religion in a big way and joined the Muslim Brotherhood as their in-house intellectual and published some seriously impressive theological and sociological works. Also participating in the governing bodies of the brotherhood, he started poking around the highest circles of Egyptian political, military and intellectual life. Then Nasser happened and he brought a secular militaristic pan-Arabnationalist ideology to fruition. While the coup was welcomed initially by Qutb as the pro-western monarchist government was overthrown, it soured rapidly for him as Nasser made it very clear that the state will be secular and booze will flow down the Nile. After an attempted assassination of Nasser, Qutb was thrown into jail. The prison air helped in lubricating his pen and he further wrote some more impressive tomes on basic Islamic concepts, political Islam, social Islam and role of Islam in modern life. While he was initially let out of jail, very soon he was back inside and this time he was tried for treason and hanged. But his philosophy lives on and that is very powerful indeed. This is not the place to go into the details of what Qutb and Bannaprofessed (which we will go into in a later essay), but given the two key aspects, an organisation and an ideology, they are well placed to provide an alternative system of governance to the world. The Muslim world has seen liberal democracies and it has seen autocracies (either royal, military or civilian). None of them have worked for the majority of the Muslims are still in decline. The attractiveness of this alternative form of politics is tremendous, first because of what western civilisation did to the Muslims and second is the Islamic faith based governance. If they can have an Islamic system of justice, morality, society, family law, governance, politics, etc. then why would they need to go for a western liberal democratic model? But how did Qutb propose to implement this new system? Through classical revolution via jihad something which Al Qaeda and a whole host of other organisations picked up and are running with. Banna and Qutb could well be considered as the Plato and Paine of the Muslim world and their influence will end at eternity. (In a following essay, I will try to analyse just what did they do to achieve success in implementation of their version of reform)

Friday, July 06, 2007

Mission Ameoba

I have just finished reading a news item on rediff news on the Lal Masjid Seige in Islamabad. I am sharing some of the posts in this post. 1. "WILL BE ONE. UNITED ISLAMIC REPUBLIC OF PAKISTAN. Only 40-50 years more. AND IT WILL BE ONE OF THE THREE SUPERPOWERS ALONG WITH US AND CHINA." 2. "le ke ja ....porkis welcome peopple with lota....the right place to sh*t....because.. porkistan is a piece of sh*t, for that all porkis have to be alive to see that day.... Day dreaming is allowed....ha...ha....." 3. "If at all the rogue nation Pakistan exists for 40 more years .. it will be destroyed completely by 2020. The Civil war is imminent and it will break into pieces" 4. "MUSLIM PROB CAN BE SLOVED BY CLOSING MADRASA. THAT IS SCHOOL OF TERRORISM THAT WE FOUND NOW A DAYS. YOU SEE ALL THE NEGATIVE MEN MAXIMUM FROM A CERTAIN RELIGION. KOUN SI ALLAH KAHATAY HAY, ADMI KO MAR DO ?? KISI KO PATA HO TO BATA NA?" 5. "mullahs and their brain washed desciples are the tumour of any country,and they should be operated and removed from the nation before it becomes a cancer and spell death to whole of nation.Madrasas should ne integrated to schools and should be controlled by govt.Any body who wishes to join these classes can join to study their religious belief as part of a school curriculum.There shud be strict monitoring of all religiuos tutoring.I believe that nobody has any superiority to claim over the other.Let their belief save them.But not with such tumours around! Forward Report abuse "